Okanagan Revisited: Chapter Two — Tantalus, the Elegance of Resilience

Among the many returns I made during my May 2025 revisit to the Okanagan Valley, one of the most anticipated was to Tantalus Vineyards, perched in the cool-climate northern slopes of East Kelowna. Cradled by mountains and sky, this is where Riesling sings and Pinot Noir thrives in the embrace of crisp mountain air. My last encounter in 2022 had already etched their Old Vines Riesling into memory as a benchmark of purity and precision. This year, however, brought not only a fresh lens on their new releases but also a thoughtful exchange with Michael Green, the ever-gracious Hospitality Manager, who guided me through a focused tasting of their spring 2025 releases.

Before the tasting, Michael also took us through a brief but illuminating winery tour. We had the privilege of sampling the 2023 Blanc de Noirs directly from the barrel — a sneak peek into its raw, pre-sparkling state before its second fermentation in bottle. Tasting its base form, bright with red fruit and a taut, linear acid backbone, we found ourselves speculating how the wine would evolve — how lees ageing and bottle fermentation might flesh out its structure and bring nuance, depth, and complexity to what already felt like a promising vintage in the making.

Tender buds emerge: the quiet promise of 2025

Michael embodies the spirit of Tantalus — passionate yet measured, deeply rooted in the land yet future-facing. As we tasted on the terrace just outside the tasting room, overlooking vibrant vineyard rows dotted with new spring buds and the glinting expanse of Okanagan Lake, he spoke candidly about the challenges of recent vintages, especially the devastating 2024 spring frost that affected many in the region, including Tantalus. Yet, what emerged from adversity was not retreat but reinvention.

“We saw it not just as a crop loss,” Michael reflected, “but a test of who we are as a winery — how deeply our philosophy of place and sustainability can carry us through.” The 2024 vintage will likely go down as one of the most telling in the 20-year history of Tantalus Vineyards — not for what was lost, but for how the team responded. Faced with a near-total crop failure at their East Kelowna estate, the winery made a thoughtful and transparent pivot: sourcing fruit beyond British Columbia to sustain their small-lot portfolio without compromising their winemaking ethos. Their flagship Riesling and Rosé meant looking east to Ontario’s Niagara Peninsula and south to Oregon’s Willamette Valley, respectively — both world-class cool-climate regions aligned with Tantalus’ stylistic sensibility.

Rather than undermining the winery’s estate-driven identity, these temporary collaborations reflect a nimble, principled approach to stewardship — one rooted in transparency, continuity, and care. The wines remain made and bottled on-site at Tantalus, guided by the same winemaking team and house philosophy. It’s a bridge year but not a detour.

The Wines: Spring 2025 Release

Despite the hurdles, the 2025 spring release lineup was nothing short of compelling—proof of both the Tantalus team’s resilience and the singular nature of their terroir.

Blanc de Noirs 2022 (Traditional Method Sparkling)

This elegant, rose-gold sparkling pours with a fine mousse and persistent bead. Aromas of golden apple, toasted hazelnut, raspberry coulis, and fresh bread dough unfold gently, leading to a palate that balances fruit purity (ambrosia apple, pomegranate, grapefruit zest) with a mineral edge of oyster shell. With 22 months on lees, just disgorged in February 2025, and a touch of Maija Pinot Noir in the dosage, it’s complex, lifted, and nuanced, worthy of any celebration or quiet contemplation.

12.6% ABV | 4.1 g/L RS | pH 3.12 | TA 7.44 g/L

Tantalus Riesling 2024 (Grown in Ontario, Made in BC)

A wine born of adaptation, this off-dry Riesling is a rare expression of east-meets-west. Sourced from two distinguished Niagara sites (Grimsby Hillside and Picone Vineyard) and vinified back in BC, it opens with aromas of lemon oil, white peach, ginger and chalk. The palate is juicy and poised, showing clementine, ripe apricot, candied lime peel and ruby grapefruit with a fine mineral spine. A chalky finish gives it the distinct house signature. A seamless blend of innovation and classicism.

11.4% ABV | 14.8 g/L RS | pH 2.83 | TA 9.16 g/L

Old Vines Riesling 2022

This remains my favourite Tantalus bottling, as it was on my first visit in 2022 when I tasted the 2019 vintage. From their heritage 1978 vines, mainly from the shaded Block 5 parcel, this 2022 vintage is again dry, similarly brilliantly structured with good breadth and depth. Aromatics of chamomile, kefir lime, and white tea give way to lemon zest and a whisper of peach blossom. On the palate: pomelo, lemon curd, overripe nectarine, lime pith and a touch of beeswax notes, all stretched over some pleasant acidity and a chalky finish. This wine is both cerebral and sensorial, built to evolve over decades.

13.0% ABV | 7.1 g/L RS | pH 2.81 | TA 10.1 g/L

Rosé 2024 (Grown in Oregon, Made in BC)

Crafted from 100% Pinot Noir sourced from Oregon’s acclaimed Looney Vineyard in Ribbon Ridge, this vibrant rosé bursts with rose water, watermelon rind and wild strawberries on the nose. The palate is dry, lean, and elegant, with red currant, rhubarb and a brush of rose petals, all lifted by the citrusy acidity. Refreshing yet layered, it is a perfect companion to a sunny Okanagan patio.

12.9% ABV | 2.4 g/L RS | pH 3.18 | TA 6.47 g/L

Tantalus Reserve Chardonnay 2022

Made only in the best years from Tantalus’ oldest vines, this Reserve Chardonnay is elegant, layered, and built to age. It opens with aromas of pear, lemon crème, and green apple, backed by hints of pecan, flint, and baking spice. The palate shows bright citrus and apple with toasted almonds and fine oak influence. Fresh acidity carries a long finish. A refined, cellar-worthy Chardonnay, excellent with scallops, roast chicken, or creamy pasta.

East Kelowna Slopes | 13.2% ABV | 0.69 g/L RS | pH 3.34 | TA 5.9 g/L | 15 months French oak | 55 cases

Tantalus Maija Pinot Noir 2022

Bright, fresh, and approachable, this Pinot is named after the owner’s daughter and brims with charm. Floral and fruity on the nose—cherry, strawberry, rose—with gentle earthy and herbal touches. On the palate, juicy red and dark berries mix with subtle spice and soft tannins. Easy to enjoy now, but with enough balance to age a few more years. A lovely match for salmon, mushrooms, or simple roast chicken.

South East Kelowna | 13.3% ABV | 0.29 g/L RS | pH 3.7 | TA 5.4 g/L | 11 months French oak (10% new)

Tantalus Reserve Pinot Noir 2022

A more structured and complex Pinot Noir that evolves beautifully in the glass. Aromas of pomegranate, violet, and forest floor lead into red plum, blackcurrant, cedar, and spice. Smooth yet firm on the palate, with fine tannins and excellent length. There’s an earthy, savoury undercurrent that keeps things grounded and intriguing. Made from a blend of three Dijon clones (667, 115, and 943) and aged thoughtfully to highlight the vineyard’s voice. Drink now with decanting or cellar for 8–12 years. Great with duck, herb-roasted chicken, or mushroom risotto.

East Kelowna | 13.4% ABV | 0.18 g/L RS | pH 3.78 | TA 5.86 g/L | 15 months French oak (40% new) | 150 cases

Tantalus Syrah 2022

This 100% Syrah comes from the neighbouring Similkameen Valley and delivers rich fruit with a savoury edge. Blueberry and blackberry meet pepper, cardamom, and cured meat on the nose. The palate is plush and smooth, with layers of black and blue fruits, spice, salami and a fresh, mineral finish. Silky tannins and lively acidity keep it lifted. Delicious now or over the next 5–7 years. Try with grilled lamb, roasted veg, or charcuterie.

13.9% ABV | 0.18 g/L RS | pH 3.67 | TA 5.7 g/L | 11 months French oak (15% new)

In a vintage where many had to pivot or pause, Tantalus chose to evolve without compromising its voice. The decision to source grapes from outside BC in 2024 was not a departure from their identity but an expression of it — a way to honour their stylistic vision and commitment to quality, even amid climatic hardship.

This visit reaffirmed why Tantalus remains one of the Okanagan’s most consistent and quietly courageous wineries — thoughtful, terroir-driven, and willing to adapt when nature demands it. I left reminded not only of their wines’ precision and poise but also of the human choices behind them.

Stay tuned for the next spotlight in this Okanagan series. I’ll share highlights from my revisits to six other wineries and some exciting new discoveries, including BC icewines and a port-style red!