Okanagan Revisited: Chapter Nine — Burrowing Owl Estate Winery: The Owl Spreads Its Wings

Our visit to Burrowing Owl was no mere coincidence. Before our Okanagan revisit, we had arranged two consecutive appointments with Chris Wyse, president of both Wild Goose and Burrowing Owl Estate Winery. Chris generously agreed to host us at both properties, offering a unique opportunity to see how the same visionary hand guides two distinctive wine estates.

After concluding our tasting at Wild Goose, we drove south through the valley for just over 30 minutes. As we descended into Oliver, the landscape shifted noticeably—hotter, flatter, and more sun-exposed, with vineyards unfurling like green mosaics across the desert floor. Here on the Black Sage Bench, Burrowing Owl rises like a Tuscan mirage, its ochre-hued tower gazing across Canada’s only desert landscape.

We were again greeted by Chris—this time at the heart of his family’s legacy. It was a true honour to have him lead the tasting, guiding us through the nuances and philosophies behind each bottle. Founded in 1993 by his father, Jim Wyse, Burrowing Owl is a paragon of terroir-focused viticulture, with 85 hectares under vine and a deep-rooted commitment to sustainability. Solar panels, geothermal heating, LEED-inspired architecture, and conservation efforts for its namesake owl speak volumes about the estate’s values.

We tasted nine wines, each a distinct expression of variety, technique, and terroir. From shimmering whites to brooding reds and a fortified finale, every glass revealed layers of complexity, character, and craft—each one a star in its own right.

The two whites we tasted offered distinct charms: a Pinot Gris bursting with orchard fruit and crystalline BC acidity and a Chardonnay as creamy and layered as a sunlit afternoon—each a wine to linger over, whether in solitude or shared company.

The red wines, particularly, are vinified with a consistent, meticulously measured approach. Grapes are harvested at full physiological ripeness to avoid greenness, de-stemmed, and gravity-fed into stainless steel tanks for a cold soak of 3–4 days, enhancing colour and flavour extraction while minimising harsh tannin extraction. Alcoholic fermentation follows, lasting 18–30 days, with extended maceration up to 10 days post-fermentation, enhancing tannin structure, colour, and flavour profiles. It’s also crucial in creating rich, complex wines with ageing potential. Both free-run and press fractions undergo malolactic fermentation in barrel, then mature for 14–18 months in a careful mix of new and seasoned French, American, Hungarian, and Caucasian oak—used judiciously to preserve fruit purity while layering spice and structure.

Pinot Gris 2023

Picked early to preserve crystalline freshness and fermented at cool temperatures in stainless steel, this Pinot Gris dances with vitality. Notes of Anjou pear, lemon pith, and white blossom unfurl gently over a bed of saline minerality. A whisper of honeycomb and orchard fuzz lingers on the finish, framed by juicy acidity. A wine is as crisp as mountain air.

13.5% abv | pH 3.45 | TA 5.0 g/L

Chardonnay 2022

Hand-harvested and whole-cluster pressed, this Chardonnay is fermented 80% in oak (mostly second-fill) and 20% in stainless steel. Aged sur lie with bâtonnage for three months, the wine strikes a captivating balance between plushness and restraint. Baked apple, nectarine, and hazelnut meld with whispers of vanilla cream, almond skin, and a flinty mineral core. Subtle yet sophisticated, with a texture like velvet over limestone.

Ageing: 85% French, 6% American, 9% Acacia oak; 11% new 

13.5% abv | pH 3.68 | TA 4.88 g/L

Merlot 2022

Deep ruby and richly scented, this Merlot speaks in tones of black plum, violets, and dark chocolate mint. On the palate, a core of ripe raspberry and blueberry compote is wrapped in supple tannins and dusted with espresso, clove, and dried sage. Elegant yet structured, it whispers of the desert’s sun and shadows.

Aged 14 months: 77% French, 13% Hungarian, 10% American oak; 14% new

14.0% abv | pH 3.71 | TA 5.59 g/L

Cabernet Sauvignon 2022

Whole-berry fermented for aromatic clarity, this Cabernet Sauvignon is brooding yet beautifully composed. Aromas of cassis, graphite, black olive, and a wisp of wild sage draw you in. The palate is dense and structured, echoing the arid heat of Oliver with robust tannins and earthy depth. It is a fine-grained powerhouse destined for longevity.

Aged 18 months: 81% French, 12% Hungarian, 7% American oak; 10% new

14.0% abv | pH 3.71 | TA 5.93 g/L

Meritage 2021

This Bordeaux-style blend (Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec) is both architectural and aromatic—fragrant with currants, violets, cedar, and spice. On the palate, it’s a canvas of dark fruit, iron minerality, and savoury herbs, interwoven with fine tannins and crisp acidity. It’s a masterclass in structure and grace.

50% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon

Aged 18 months: 77% French, 13% Hungarian, 10% American oak; 14% new

14.0% abv | pH 3.987 | TA 5.56 g/L

Cabernet Franc 2022

Harvested late to capture full ripeness, this Cabernet Franc is a winemaker’s darling. Perfumed with lavender, raspberry, dried rose petals, and graphite, it delivers an elegant, medium-bodied profile. Red berry compote, cumin, and black tea unfold gently with silken tannins. Ethereal, precise, and utterly beguiling.

Aged in 80.5% French, 11.5% Hungarian, 8% American oak; 26% new

14.0% abv | pH 3.71 | TA 5.74 g/L

Syrah 2021

Partial whole-cluster fermentation lends this Syrah both power and lift. The nose is smoky and wild—brambly black fruit, cracked pepper, bacon fat, and campfire ash. A palate of brooding berries, charred meat, and roasted spice unfolds over fine-grained tannins and vibrant acidity. This is a wine of elemental drama.

Aged 15 months: 60% French, 20% American, 10% Hungarian, 10% Caucasian oak; 20% new

14.0% abv | pH 3.87 | TA 5.75 g/L

Athene 2021

Named for the goddess of wisdom and owls, this 50/50 Syrah-Cabernet Sauvignon blend is as cerebral as it is sensual. The Syrah brings depth and spice; the Cabernet, polish and grip. Aromas of damson, fig, smoked meat, and violet swirl into a dark, layered palate with herbs, cocoa, and cured olive. A mythic expression of the Okanagan’s power and poise.

Aged 18 months: 75% French, 15% American, 10% Hungarian oak; 23% new 

14.0% abv | pH 3.92 | TA 5.48 g/L

Caruja (A Fortified Red Wine)

Named for the Portuguese word for “owl,” Caruja is a late-harvest Syrah fortified and aged via a fractional Solera method. Aromas of dried plum, marzipan, chocolate ganache, and baking spice embrace the nose like a velvet shawl. It is rich and luminous on the palate, with jammy berry, candied violet, and warm spices tapering to a silky, lingering finish. A soulful, port-style elixir for winter nights.

18.0% abv | RS 90 g/L | pH 3.79 | TA 6.2 g/L