Okanagan Revisited: Chapter Ten — Nk'Mip: A Revisit to the Desert Soul

From Oliver’s golden benches, we ventured further south, inching ever closer to the invisible thread of the U.S. border. Here, in the heart of Osoyoos, the landscape shifts dramatically. The vineyards give way to desert sage, and the air seems slow, thick with heat and history. This is Canada’s only desert, part of the northern reach of the great Sonoran, stretching all the way from Mexico. Cacti thrive. Rattlesnakes slither. And at its cultural heart lies the Nk’Mip Desert Cultural Centre—a portal into Indigenous knowledge and the story of the land’s first stewards.

Nestled in this arid, sun-drenched terrain is Nk’Mip Cellars, the first Indigenous-owned and operated winery in North America. To visit is not merely to taste wine but to encounter a convergence of land, people, and story that is both ancient and evolving.

I first visited here in 2022 when I met Estate Manager Troy Ravindahl. Even then, I sensed that Nk’Mip is more than a winery—a reclamation, a statement, a celebration. On this revisit, I had the privilege of meeting Justin Hall, Nk’Mip’s head winemaker and a proud member of the Osoyoos Indian Band. His soft-spoken yet commanding presence echoed the land he works on—firm in purpose, generous in spirit. It was an honour to be welcomed.

Nk’Mip’s vineyards spread across the east-facing banks of Osoyoos Lake, where the warmest days in Canada are tempered by late-afternoon breezes and cool desert nights. This dramatic diurnal swing brings the gift of balance—sun-drenched ripeness held taut by mouthwatering acidity. The resulting wines are bold, expressive, and distinctly Southern Okanagan.

At the pinnacle of Nk’Mip’s range is the “Qwam Qwmt” series—named in the Syilx language for “achieving excellence.” These wines are not only benchmarks for the region but also vessels of cultural pride, carrying forward Indigenous identity through terroir-driven craftsmanship.

We began our tasting with the vibrant whites and rosé of 2023, wines that shimmered with desert light:

• Pinot Blanc 2023: As fresh as a breeze through dry sagebrush, with whispers of green apple and citrus rind. A crystalline clarity, unadorned and quietly confident.  13.18% abv | 0.78 g/L RS | pH 3.38 | TA 6.13 g/L

  
  

• Dreamcatcher 2023: A gentle interweaving of 36% Riesling, 29% Sauvignon Blanc, 24% Ehrenfelser and 11% Pinot Blanc. Peony, pineapple, mandarin—flavours that dance across the tongue like sunlight on water. A wine of joy, off-dry but buoyed by acidity like a feather on the wind. A real crowd-pleaser.   13.0% abv | 13.0 g/L RS | pH 2.89 | TA 8.14 g/L

  
  

• Rosé 2023: 90% Cabernet Franc and 10% Pinot Noir, whole-cluster pressed into purity. Strawberries, white flowers, grapefruit—juicy and jubilant, this is summer bottled.  13.21% abv | 2.09 g/L RS | pH 3.4 | TA 5.05 g/L

Then came the Qwam Qwmt Riesling 2022, harvested late for depth and drama and soaked for four hours of skin contact time to develop a subtle phenolic texture. Bright lime and Granny Smith apple leapt from the glass, chased by passionfruit, apricot, pineapple, and a piercing crushed-stone minerality. This was no shy wine—it was mountain stream and orchard bloom in a single gulp. It zinged, then lingered like a song.  12.86% abv | 5.88 g/L RS | pH 3.02 | TA 8.04 g/L

The Qwam Qwmt Pinot Noir 2022 was made from grapes of four clones (Pommard, 115, 667, and 777), all grown at Inkameep Vineyards in Oliver. It was fermented for 7–10 days and then aged for 10 months in French oak barrels, 25% new. The result is a full-bodied and serious Pinot Noir with violet perfume, ripe cherry and pomegranate (mostly attributed to the 33% Pommard clone), all layered on silky tannins. It spoke not of Burgundy restraint but of the boldness of this desert terroir—sun-baked, expressive, unmistakable.  14.1% abv | 0.7 g/L RS | pH 3.6 | TA 6 g/L

Two reds, though, stood as pillars:

• Qwam Qwmt Syrah 2020: Perfumed and powerful. Ripe blueberry, pepper, violets—layered and lush. It had the musculature of the South, yet with finesse, a dancer in a warrior’s frame.  14.88% abv | 0.75 g/L RS | pH 3.77 | TA 6.51 g/L

• Qwam Qwmt Merlot 2020: If Merlot has a future in Canada, this could well be its flagbearer. Ripe red and black cherries, cocoa, and plum create a profile that’s opulent but never heavy. Fine-grained, gently nudging tannins extend the finish with elegance and depth. Only the label reminds me of the alcohol.  15.07% abv | 0.3 g/L RS | pH 3.6 | TA 6.2 g/L

We closed with Talon 2022, a blend of primarily Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon with some Malbec and Cabernet Franc, named after the mythical Thunderbird. Raspberry, spice, and chocolate whispered through its core, wrapped in oak, and myth. The entry is soft, with smooth and complete fine-grained tannins and a pleasing acidity, which leads to a lengthy finish.  14.9% abv | 5.8 g/L RS | pH 3.7 | TA 6.9 g/L

Finally, a hush fell over the room as the Qwam Qwmt Riesling Icewine 2022 was poured—liquid gold, fragrant with apricot, citrus blossom and jasmine, rich with ripe pineapple, peach, honey and citrus, leading to a lengthy juicy finish. Served in tiny chocolate cups, it was nothing short of a sacred dessert.   8.74% abv | 215 g/L RS | pH 3.21 | TA 12.04 g/L

Nk’Mip Cellars is not just a destination but a return to land, heritage, and spirit. Here, the wines are not only of the place but also of the people. Each bottle is a testament to stewardship, resilience, and the quiet power of reclaiming one’s story—one vintage at a time.