Discovering Hokkaido Wines at RBHK

This week at RBHK, I must admit, the fair felt unusually quiet, and exhibitor turnout was disappointingly thin. Only a handful of booths showed wines, with a few more offering spirits. Just as I thought it’s gonna be a dull tasting day, I stumbled upon a true surprise: a booth showcasing wines from Hokkaido, Japan’s northernmost island. Around twenty samples were lined up, and let me tell you, the quality and diversity of styles were astonishing.

Located roughly between 41° and 45°N, Hokkaido’s vineyards lie at latitudes comparable to Champagne and Alsace, and you can taste that cool-climate precision in the glass. The region’s long, cold winters and heavy snowfall might sound harsh for vines. Still, they suit beautifully varieties like Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and of course, such German varieties as Kerner and Zweigelt. Even more intriguing are the cold-resistant hybrid grapes developed locally, such as Yamasachi, Yama Sauvignon, and Kiyomai, which not only survive but thrive in Hokkaido’s frosty winters. What struck me most was how well the sparkling wines performed — crisp, elegant, and full of energy, some of the finest I’ve tasted outside Europe.

Sparkling Stars

The standout of the tasting came from Hokkaido Wine Co. Ltd, their Traditional Method Hokkaido Type C. A classic Champagne-style blend of Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, and a touch of Zweigelt, it had clarity, backbone, and a depth of flavour that comes from 19 months on the lees. No malolactic fermentation kept the acidity razor sharp, making it a perfect partner for oysters or fresh sashimi.

At Furano Winery, the Perle Blanche 2021 was a revelation. A golden-hued blend of Riesling, Bacchus, and Kerner offered aromas of green apple, toast, and honey, with firm acidity and a lingering finish. It reminded me of a German Sekt in style but with a Japanese delicacy that makes it uniquely its own.

Equally intriguing was Tokachi Makibanoie Yuusui 2022, a dry rosé sparkling made from Kiyomi. Its fine bubbles, red-fruit aromas, and refreshing acidity made it tailor-made for sushi or even tempura. I loved how the winemaker, a true récoltant-manipulant, conveyed a sense of place and tradition in every sip.

Whites with a Twist

One of the joys of tasting Hokkaido wines is discovering how Germanic varieties thrive in the cold. Kerner and Bacchus yield whites with vibrant fruitiness and racy acidity. A Bacchus 2024 I tried (from Tada Vineyard) was light, aromatic, and only 10.5% abv, a natural aperitif wine that would shine alongside delicate sashimi or chilled soba noodles.

And then, something truly fascinating: Blanc de Noir made from Pinot Noir. Typically, you’d expect a red, but Pinot struggles to achieve full tannic ripeness in Hokkaido’s climate, so brilliant winemakers gently press the dark-skinned grapes to create a pure, elegant white. Both Tada Wine Blanc de Noir 2023 and Kitajima Blanc de Noir 2023 showed lovely texture, a touch of astringency, and bright fruit, a delightful match for tomato pasta or light Japanese grilled dishes.

Reds for Japanese Tables

Hokkaido’s reds are lighter than warmer regions’ big, bold styles, making them perfect companions for Japanese cuisine. What makes these wines especially fascinating is the reliance on cold-resistant hybrid grape varieties, which thrive in cool-to-cold-climate regions like Hokkaido.

Take Rondo, a dark-skinned hybrid created in Czechoslovakia by St. Laurent and Zarya Severa. It ripens early, resists winter frost, and suits northern climates beautifully. The Tsurunuma Harvest Special Cuvée Rondo 2021 impressed me with its deep colour, oak influence, and wild berry flavours, just the thing for duck breast with a soy glaze.

Then there’s Yama Sauvignon, a Japanese-born hybrid crossing wild mountain grapes (Yama Budou) with Cabernet Sauvignon. It produces wines with deep colour, earthy undertones, and vibrant raspberry-like fruit, balanced by good acidity and soft astringency. The 2021 vintage from Sapporo Wine carried herbal depth and oak complexity, a step up in structure compared to earlier vintages.

Finally, Kiyomai, developed in Hokkaido by crossing the delicate Kiyomi grape with frost-resistant wild mountain grapes, showed the fullest body of all the reds I tasted. The Tokachi Makibanoie Kiyomai 2023 had real substance and age-worthy potential, proving how hybrids tailored for Hokkaido’s harsh winters can produce compelling wines. Alongside Kiyomai, local hybrids like Yamasachi are also helping define a distinct, cold-climate red wine identity for the region.

A Wine Writer’s Impression

Although Hokkaido’s winemaking history stretches back to 1876, the region is still a newcomer on the global wine map, but it’s carving out a unique identity. Just as we look to Champagne for sparkling or Alsace for aromatic whites, I can see Hokkaido gaining recognition as Japan’s cool-climate jewel.

While tasting these wines, I wondered how naturally they align with Japanese cuisine. This tasting was a reminder that wine is always evolving, and sometimes the most delightful discoveries come from places we least expect. Next time you enjoy sushi, sashimi, or even a bowl of ramen, imagine pairing it with a bottle from Hokkaido; you might just find your new favourite match.