Okanagan Revisited: Chapter Four — A Return to Quails' Gate, Steadfast Craft in the Face of Change

My return to Quails’ Gate this May felt like a gentle closing of a circle. Perched on the sun-kissed western slopes of Kelowna, directly across the lake from Tantalus, the estate bathes in the golden hush of the morning sunshine, a quiet radiance at this northern latitude. I had last walked these vines in 2022, in the aftermath of the pandemic, when I met Angela Lyons, Vice President of Sales and Marketing; Rowan Stewart, Project Assistant Winemaker; and Jérome Jyusen, their then-resident Sommelier. Jérome has since moved on, but the winery feels no less vibrant. This spring, the tasting room hums with life, the wine shop buzzes with eager visitors, and the air carries a sense of renewal. Though Angela and I missed each other this time, I was warmly welcomed at the counter for a focused tasting of their new releases. The elegance, restraint, and quiet confidence that define Quails’ Gate wines still shine through.

Angela’s note, sent before my visit, painted a sobering picture of the winter past. The deep cold of January 2024 had ravaged over 90% of the region’s grape crop — a devastating freeze that might have halted momentum elsewhere. But here, resilience has taken root. By spring, Quails’ Gate was already replanting 85 acres, building on the 45 acres restored the year before. Out of this adversity, the Stewarts are reshaping their vineyards with the intention of adopting hardier rootstock and the latest clones of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. It’s a quiet reinvention, a long view toward a stronger, more expressive future.

The Wines: 

What struck me during the tasting was how consistent the winery’s elegant, high-quality style remained despite the trials of the past few years. 

Continuum Riesling 2024

Made from the rare parcels of grapes spared by the freeze, it has a clean and spirited personality: pear, white peach, and candied citrus notes dance across a crisp, faintly off-dry frame. Fermentation (70% in stainless steel and 30% in neutral oak) provides clarity with a touch of dimension. This is a Riesling that honours its name, a continuation rather than a compromise. Perfect with citrus-glazed scallops, Vietnamese spring rolls with shrimp, or a Thai mango salad.

13% abv | 9 g/L RS | pH 3.2 | TA 9.33 g/L

Rosemary’s Block Chardonnay 2022

Named after the matriarch of the Stewart family, this Chardonnay draws its fruit from the north side of Boucherie Road, benefiting from slightly cooler exposures, resulting in grapes with exceptional balance. Aromas of sun-ripened lemon, poached pear, and warm croissants unfold in the glass. On the palate, creamy textures mingle with vibrant citrus, yellow apple, lemon curd, sweet tarragon, and roasted hazelnuts.  With full malolactic fermentation, extended lees ageing, and 10-month ageing in French oak barrels on lees with regular bâtonnage achieve not only the rich, creamy texture and layered dimensions but also a balance between power and finesse, perfect for roasted poultry or sablefish with beurre blanc. Consistently classy and elegant as for the 2019 vintage.

13% abv | 0.3 g/LRS | pH 3.4 | TA 6.8 g/L

Richard’s Block Pinot Noir 2021

Named in honour of Richard Stewart, who introduced Pinot Noir to the Okanagan Valley in 1975, this wine, a flagship of the Quails’ Gate ethos, maybe the most expressive Pinot I’ve tasted from Quails’ Gate to date. Clones 777, 115, and 828 deliver a perfumed nose revealing wild violets, chocolate-covered cherries and some distinctive Okanagan sagebrush character.  The palate is multi-layered:  black tea, wild strawberry, and hints of orange peel and forest leaves underpinned by polished, velvety tannins. The structure is nimble yet grounded, a trait of Pinot Noir at its best. It would shine with duck confit, venison loin, or a mushroom risotto rich with truffle oil.  Even more complex than the 2019 vintage.

14% abv | 0.6 g/LRS | pH 3.7 | TA 5.5 g/L | 16 months French oak (34% new)

Old Vine Foch 2022

Maréchal Foch, a cold-hardy French-American hybrid grape variety, was once a mainstay of Canadian viticulture but has since faded into niche status. Quails’ Gate has preserved its legacy through vines planted in 1978 in Osoyoos. These old vines continue to produce fruit with distinct intensity and character. 

The 2022 vintage was fermented on skins for 10 days and aged in 20% new French oak, lending it both rustic charm and fine polish. The nose offers a bouquet of clove spice, dried red currants, and gamey undertones. The palate features sour cherry and cocoa layered with hints of vanilla from oak ageing. Its firm yet supple structure makes it approachable now. Foch’s unique personality makes it a stellar match for grilled lamb or charred portobello mushrooms with balsamic glaze. For wine lovers who enjoy something off the beaten path, this bottle is a window into BC’s vinous past.

14% abv | 1.1 g/L RS | pH 3.7 | TA 6.5 g/L

Boswell Syrah 2021

Part of the winery’s Founders’ Series and named for Rosemary Stewart’s family, this wine speaks of structure and strength.  The heat dome of 2021 reduced yields but intensified flavour concentration, a blessing in disguise for this robust varietal. The nose reveals pronounced aromas of black plum, violet, cracked pepper and smoked herbs. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied and structured, with notes of grilled meat, dark berries, and a thread of minerality. The oak influence is assertive yet balanced, enriching the wine’s long, spicy finish. The tannins are grippy but polished, giving the wine both gravitas and grace. Perfect for slow-cooked ribs, harissa-marinated eggplant steaks or Szechuan beef stir-fry.

14% abv | 1.2 g/L RS | pH 3.8 | TA 6.2 g/L | 17 months French oak (35% new)

While much in the Valley has changed since my 2022 visit, Quails’ Gate remains steadfast. If anything, the challenges of recent years have sharpened their vision. With renewed vines, enduring craftsmanship, and a portfolio that marries tradition with technical prowess, Quails’ Gate remains one of Okanagan’s most compelling voices.