Okanagan Revisited: Chapter Five —Laughing Stock (LFNG) – Investing in Clay, Concrete, and Curiosity
- Philip Wong
- May 25
- 5 min read
On the second day of our visit, we moved south to the Central Okanagan. Welcome to Penticton, where LFNG, aka Laughing Stock Vineyards, has long been a notable producer with vineyards stretching into the Central and Southern Okanagan.
LFNG began its journey in 2003 when David and Cynthia Enns left the corporate world to establish a winery whose identity playfully references their past careers in finance. The name “Laughing Stock” was a nod to their bold career change, and their flagship blend “Portfolio” cemented their position in BC’s premium wine scene. Today, under the Arterra portfolio, the winery continues to evolve, especially in the hands of winemaker Sandy Leier, who took the reins in July 2022, just one month before my first visit to the winery.
Sandy brings a fresh perspective and a strong interest in exploring non-conventional vessels like amphorae and concrete eggs. Though I couldn't meet Sandy in person during this visit, I did manage to taste through a compelling lineup of her wines each reflecting her thoughtful approach to fermentation and maturation, and her growing mastery of small-lot production. Vera Kyle graciously hosted our tasting, where I was able to revisit some stalwarts and explore exciting newcomers like Market Bubble and Market Darling.
Fermenting the Future: Wines in Focus
Market Bubble 2020
LFNG’s first-ever traditional-method sparkling wine has made a stunning debut. This bottle-fermented cuvée spent 36 months on lees, and the base wines were crafted from three classic varieties: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Meunier. Fermentation took place in neutral French oak (50%) and stainless steel (50%), combining richness and freshness. The wine was disgorged in July 2024 and released with a dosage of 4 g/L. Tasting Note: Lemon curd, white peach, and brioche on the nose. The palate is textural, creamy, and bright, with ripe melon and integrated acidity.Blend: 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Meunier. 12.2% abv | 4.5 g/L RS | pH 3.22 | TA 7.7 g/L
Blind Trust White 2023 (Not yet released at the time of tasting)
The return of a dormant label. This new iteration of Blind Trust White turns out to be 100% Sauvignon Blanc, despite the mystery label encouraging blind tasting. Winemaking: 69% fermented in neutral French oak barrels and puncheons; 31% in stainless steel. Partial malolactic conversion for mouthfeel. Tasting Note: A pungent nose of gooseberry, lemon pith, wet rock, and herbaceous notes. Juicy with a bright mix of citrus fruits, guava and lemongrass. The oak influence cushions the acidity texturally without overwhelming the flavours. 12.9% abv | 2.0 g/L RS | pH 3.3 | TA 6.5 g/L
The Amphora Series: Hands-Off, Clay-On
Amphora Chenin Blanc 2023
From McIntyre Vineyard in Okanagan Falls, this small-lot wine revives ancient winemaking in 500L terracotta amphorae. Fermented with wild yeast, the Chenin saw a long, slow fermentation and partial malolactic conversion. Tasting Note: The nose is filled with orange blossom, white peach, and wet stone. The palate offers ripe mandarin, lemon zest, honeydew, and a soft, yogurt-like acidity.
14.4% abv | 1.8 g/L RS | pH 3.42 | TA 7.7 g/L
Amphora Viognier 2023
Also amphora-fermented (in two 500L vessels), this Viognier contrasts beautifully with the winery’s regular version. Fruit sourced from Osoyoos for optimal ripeness. Tasting Note: The nose is filled with honeydew, apricot, and white flowers. The palate is smooth, with lemon curd and a creamy mouthfeel layered with restrained acidity. 14.2% abv | 1.1 g/L RS | pH 3.52 | TA 6.2 g/L
Viognier 2022
The winery’s annual Viognier provides a clear comparison to the amphora version. Winemaking: 69% neutral French oak and 31% concrete eggs; aged on lees for 6 months. Tasting Note: Ripe pear, yellow apple, white peach, and subtle oak spice. Crisp and bright acidity with a round finish, but with less textural polish than its amphora sibling. 14.1% abv | 0.09 g/L RS | pH 3.44 | TA 5.6 g/L
Chardonnay 2022
A masterclass in vessel balance: 84% barrel fermentation (25% new oak) complemented by 16% concrete egg. Lees stirred weekly over 9 months, with partial malolactic.Tasting Note: Orange blossom and crème brûlée on the nose. The palate combines ripe pear, lemon butter, and a silky custard finish. Elegant and harmonious. 14.0% abv | 0.09 g/L RS | pH 3.43 | TA 5.5 g/L
Pinot Noir 2022
Multi-site fruit from the southern Okanagan contributes to this layered Pinot. Winemaking: Whole grape berries fermented in stainless steel tanks, followed by 14-month ageing in French oak barrels (20% new). Tasting Note: A perfumed nose with black plum, cherry compote, and spice. The palate delivers black tea, rose petals, and cedar. Well-structured with aging potential through 2030. Lovely! 14.2% abv | 1.1 g/L RS | pH 3.7 | TA 5.8 g/L
Syrah 2022
A classic Northern Rhône-style Syrah with 4% Viognier co-fermentation. Winemaking: Whole grape berries fermented in stainless steel tanks; aged 20 months in French oak (41% new). Tasting Note: Lavender, red liquorice, black plum, and potpourri on the nose. On the palate, raspberry, cranberry, and spicy oak mingle with cured meat nuances. Lean and elegant. Drink 2025–2032. 14.8% abv | 1.0 g/L RS | pH 3.75 | TA 5.7 g/L
Amphora Syrah 2023
An entirely different expression of Syrah. Winemaking: Fermented and matured in three 500L amphorae, untouched for 6 months. The natural ferment began after 10 days of cold soaking. Tasting Note: Chocolate-covered raspberry, berries and cream, with hints of eucalyptus, fennel, and olive brine. The palate is bold and full-bodied, tannic but smooth, and spicy with red and black fruit, slate, and stewed plum. Drink 2025–2034. 14.5% abv | 1.5 g/L RS | pH 3.8 | TA 5.8 g/L
The Flagships: Bold but Balanced
Portfolio 2022 (Not yet released at the time of tasting)
LFNG’s flagship blend celebrates its 20th vintage. Winemaking: Whole berry fermentation in stainless steel; aged 20 months in French oak (40% new). Tasting Note: Cassis, liquorice, black plum, leather, and cocoa on a structured palate of velvety tannins and sweet oak. An outstanding Bordeaux blend. 51% Merlot, 29% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 6% Malbec, 4% Petit Verdot 14.8% abv | 0.4 g/L RS | pH 3.77 | TA 6.9 g/L
Market Darling 2022
The winery’s first 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Just 10 barrels were produced. Tasting Note: Cassis, blackberry, vanilla bean, and sweet herbs. The palate delivers Oolong tea, graphite, cedarwood, and violets, all wrapped in firm tannins and lifting acidity. Cellar-worthy. Drink 2025–2035. 14.8% abv | 0.5 g/L RS | pH 3.76 | TA 7.0 g/L
Final Thoughts
LFNG may have begun with a financial pun, but its current trajectory, particularly under Sandy Leier, is anything but a joke. The diversity of fermentation and maturation vessels is more than winemaking experimentation; it’s a philosophy. From ancient amphorae to modern concrete eggs, each vessel leaves its imprint, and each bottle tells a nuanced story of texture, restraint, and balance.
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