Okanagan Revisited: Chapter Six — Poplar Grove: A Testament to Adaptability

Just a ten-minute drive from LFNG, we arrived at Poplar Grove, an estate that left a lasting impression on me during my first visit in 2022. I remember sitting in their comfy tasting room, sunlight pouring through tall windows, sensing not just the quality of the wines but the heartbeat of a family working in unison. It wasn’t just a winery; it was a shared vision led by father Tony Holler and his four sons. That day, I met Tony and his eldest, Chris—both disarmingly warm, with a glint of pride in their eyes and a fierce passion for the land they farm. You could feel the joint force of family behind every bottle.

This year, I was welcomed once again by Chris Holler, and it felt like picking up a conversation left comfortably paused. We gathered for a tasting of their latest 2025 releases, but what struck me most wasn’t just the continued refinement in their portfolio: it was the sense of quiet determination that had guided Poplar Grove through the trials of the 2024 vintage. Faced with a brutal winter freeze that compromised much of their estate crop, the team chose not to retreat but to evolve. The result: a new Cascadia Series, sourced from premium fruit across the border in Washington, yet crafted with the same Okanagan soul. It’s a story of adaptability, resourcefulness, and grace under pressure.

Cascadia Series: A Vintage of Necessity and Ingenuity

Chris introduced the Cascadia 2024 series: wines born of necessity, yet executed with purpose and artistry. When the cold snap hit, it devastated many of their vines. Instead of scaling back or letting their devoted staff go, Poplar Grove made a bold move: they sourced fruits from Washington’s Columbia Valley, while keeping every detail of vinification, aging, and bottling on Canadian soil.

“This wasn’t just a business decision—it was a philosophical one,” Chris explained. “We’re still celebrating the fruits of the Pacific Northwest. The profile is familiar: good ripeness, balanced acidity. It allows us to preserve our standards and protect our people.”

The juice, rather than whole grapes, was transported across the border in temperature-controlled tanks at 2–4°C. This clever approach preserved freshness and gave the team tighter control over fermentation. The resulting wines are seamless—unmistakably Poplar Grove in finesse and intention.

Wines Tasted

Sparkling Extra Brut 2020

A labour of love from vineyard to flute, this 100% estate Chardonnay was hand-harvested by Tony and Barb Holler. After 24 months on lees, it emerges with elegance and edge: brilliant pale gold with notes of apple, toasted almond, and white peach riding a fine, persistent mousse. The finish is crystalline and graceful, a celebration of patience and precision.

100% Chardonnay | 12.5% abv | 1.1 g/L RS | pH 3.24

Pinot Gris Cascadia 2024

Sourced from Washington but speaking fluently in the Poplar Grove dialect. Twenty fermentation lots were harmonised into a wine that shimmers pale straw in the glass, with aromas of pear, white peach, and citrus zest. A crisp, clean profile makes this a Pinot Gris that stands tall in any vintage.

92% Pinot Gris, 3% Viognier, 2% Sauvignon Blanc, 1.5% Chardonnay, 1.5% Muscat

13.2% abv | 0.3 g/L RS | pH 3.4

Chardonnay 2022

A wine that walks the line between brightness and breadth. Fruit from Osoyoos, Okanagan Falls, and the Naramata Bench meet in a blend that’s 80% stainless steel-fermented, with the rest resting in new French oak. The nose hints at oak perfume; the palate dances with toasted almond, white peach, and lemon zest. Elegant yet textured.

100% Chardonnay | 13% abv | 0.1 g/L RS | pH 3.6

Blanc de Franc 2023

Born from Cabernet Franc grapes that refused to ripen for a red wine quality, this clever white is both surprising and triumphant. It has a pale straw appearance and aromas of citrus, green apple, and wildflowers. The palate unfolds with lemon zest, pear, a whisper of strawberry, and saline minerality. It is a refreshing reminder that beauty often springs from constraint.

100% Cabernet Franc

Cascadia Rosé 2024

Precision meets poetry in this rosé of Malbec and Muscat. After three hours of skin contact, the juice was carefully separated and fermented in two distinct lots. The result: a watermelon-hued wine laced with strawberry, citrus zest, cherry blossom, and a kiss of honeydew. A masterclass in balance and brightness.

92% Malbec, 8% Muscat

12.5% abv | 0.4 g/L RS | pH 3.4

Pinot Noir 2022

This is a six-clone blend from the Naramata Bench vinified in a dedicated Pinot facility. Whole-berry fermentation, gentle cap management, and a thoughtful oak regime result in a wine that is both ethereal and grounded. Aromas of red cherry, baking spice, and subtle forest floor precede a palate of raspberry, dark plum, fine acidity, and pleasant tannins. Pure Okanagan elegance.

100% Pinot Noir | 13.7% abv | 0.4 g/L RS | pH 3.77

Syrah 2021

Echoing the benchmark 2018 vintage, this Syrah—lifted with a splash of Viognier—unfolds with violet, black pepper, and sage on the nose. The palate is intense with black raspberry, plum, and sweet spice, bound by firm tannins and a graceful finish.

97% Syrah, 3% Viognier

14.9% abv | 0.4 g/L RS | pH 3.8

Merlot 2020

A spirited, structured Merlot that was hand-picked, oak-aged for 21 months, and matured another year in bottle. Deep ruby, with notes of black plum and vanilla bean on the nose. Black cherry, raspberry, and java apple grace the palate with a peppery lift. Vibrant acidity and silky tannins make this vintage a standout—just as the 2018 vintage.

95% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 2% Cabernet Sauvignon

14.5% abv | 0.5 g/L RS | pH 3.7

Cabernet Franc 2020

A wine of depth and dimension. Aromas of blueberry, eucalyptus, and cranberry rise from the glass, while the palate reveals bing cherry, black tea, and cedar. Bold tannins and bright acidity balance the long, expressive finish. Complex, confident, and cellar-worthy. One of the day’s undeniable stars.

90% Cabernet Franc, 5% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Malbec

14.8% abv | 0.8 g/L RS | pH 3.9

Legacy 2017

The flagship Bordeaux blend that lives up to its name. Deep ruby, with cassis, violet, spice, and a whisper of caramel on the nose. While the flavours echo the nose, plush tannins frame a long, resonant finish. Built to last, but already singing.

40% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Malbec, 6% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot

14.5% abv | 0.6 g/L RS | pH 3.85

A Restaurant Worth Returning For

In 2022, the on-site restaurant was still finding its post-pandemic rhythm. This year, it was in full bloom. We enjoyed a vibrant Mother’s Day brunch curated by Executive Chef Stacy Johnston and Chef de Cuisine Minette Lotz. Seasonal ingredients, local inspiration, and elegant plating—all perfectly paired with the wines we’d just tasted. If you're near Poplar Grove at mealtime, make it a priority.

Seared Albacore Tuna, with Chardonnay apple butter, spruce tips, arugula, pickled shallots, tapioca crisp

Hokkaido Scallops, with cabbage and apple salad, cider vinaigrette, warm bacon dressing

Reflections

Poplar Grove is more than a winery; it portrays how adaptability, vision, and community commitment can elevate a vineyard beyond terroir. Their wines continue to inspire, but it was their quiet strength and swift ingenuity in a year of setbacks that made this visit unforgettable. In every glass, there is a story. In every decision, there is a belief that true greatness lies not only in the land but in the hands that respond to it.